Mid Wales restaurant ranked among best in United Kingdom

For 32 years Harden's have been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant.

In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey.

Ynyshir Restaurant and Rooms in Eglwys Fach topped the regional restaurants and was ranked 37th nationally.

Its summary read: 'There’s nowhere quite like it – A middle-of-nowhere mid Wales location only adds to the mystique surrounding Gareth Ward’s renowned country house hotel, whose promotion to two Michelin stars reflects its current position as a major ‘darling’ of the UK fooderati.

'It’s hard not to be impressed by such a rapid rise to fame while charging £350 per head in the heart of the distant countryside.

'Ingredient-led, flavour-driven, fat-fuelled, meat-obsessed’ is its motto and many diners remain “absolutely blown away by a meal here” and the 20–30 courses of “mind bending flavours” created by “a fantastic team performance” that provides “pure theatre”.

Gareth Ward, chef owner of Ynyshir Restaurant and Rooms.

'Even fans, though, are starting to feel that “success has slightly gone to their heads” and even many who feel the food is “regally good” think it risks becoming “ridiculously overpriced” with almost one in three reporters now nominating the place as their most overpriced experience of the year.

READ MORE:

• Inquest concludes into 'vivacious' Powys man Leighton Tibbott
• RECAP: Main roads closed as flooding hits Powys
• Hedgerow near historic site can be removed, Powys planners rule

'And while it’s not like the place hides its maximalist, macho tendencies, these can also be a mixed blessing.

'Yes the food is amazing, flavours just jump out at you. But it is all so intense, dish after dish, 32 in all. The atmosphere is like a live performance and by the end you can’t cope and sit in a dazed stupor. It’s fun, but too intense and too alpha male.'

SY23 in Aberystwyth came in 54th in the national listings.

Harden's said: "Local produce - "foraged, farmed or fished" - is cooked over fire at this tasting menu spot; there's also Y Sgwar, an all-weather, small plates, outside dining area with fire pits built into the tables."

The summary read: "We live in West Wales and none of us ever thought we might, one day, say ‘Let’s go and eat in Aberystwyth’. But we did. And it was good."

'Nathan Davies’s brave venture is very much in the mould of Ynyshir but not to be dismissed for that. With its chunky industrial decor and loud heavy metal, it has a totally different vibe from typical rural restaurants.

'The food is primarily cooked over coals and its ten-course tasting menu delivers unusual flavours, beautifully presented and realised to an exemplary standard.

'It quickly won recognition from the Tyre Men in February 2022 and was named their ‘Opening of the Year’.

'But it stands out from the typical ‘haute’ norm. Perhaps there is a sameness in most one-stars now, or maybe we are world-weary and have eaten out too often, but this place is well worth the detour."

Several Powys eateries also received honourable mention though missed out on the top 100.

The Upper Rectory in Berriew was described as a 'supper-club style restaurant opens three times a week in the beautiful timbered family home of chef Kerry Huber.'

In summary it added: 'Kerry Huber serves “wonderful ‘posh nosh’ meals” in her home, a beautiful old black-and-white house full of atmosphere – “highly recommended” and very good value at £35 for seven courses, served ‘supper-club’ style. Top Tip: guests rave about the signature twice-cooked soufflé.'

The Checkers Montgomery. Pictured (centre) is Stephane Borie.

Montgomery's Checkers Pantry also received praise.

Checkers' chef Stéphane Borie handed back his Michelin star in 2018, opting to focus on private clients. His wife Sarah Francis and her co-owner sister Kathryn have since turned it into a more casual breakfast and lunch spot, Checkers Pantry.

The summary read: 'In Spring 2022, Andrew Birch (erstwhile head chef of London’s Savoy Grill) and his wife Rachel relaunched this well-known coaching inn, part of a small scenic town in rural Powys.

'The main option is a seven-course tasting menu (with a vegetarian alternative), but there’s also a simpler lunch.'